The Saturday
morning before I was to meet Vince at Milepost -0- on the C and O Canal was
cool, cloudy, and damp, even for late May in West Virginia’s northern
panhandle. As I put four fully loaded panniers, tent with polls, sleeping pad,
and tarp with polls in the back of my friend Suzann’s car and strapped my bike
onto the car’s rear bike rack, I wondered what the weather was like in DC. I
had checked the National Weather Service forecast for our nation’s capital
earlier in the morning and it called for less than a 50% chance of rain, but
one never knows for sure.
Suzann climbed into the passenger’s
seat, I slid behind the steering wheel into the driver’s seat, and we were soon
bound for West Virginia’s other panhandle, the eastern one. By a quirk of
geography influenced by both physical geology and political history, most of
our four hour drive from the northern panhandle near Pittsburgh to the eastern
panhandle near DC would take us through Pennsylvania and Maryland rather than
West Virginia. It would also take us across the Mason Dixon Line from north to
south, and across the Eastern Continental Divide from west to east. Within the
week ahead I would be reversing those transitions on my bike, riding from DC,
past West Virginia’s eastern panhandle, across the Mason Dixon Line south to
north, across the eastern continental divide from east to west, to Pittsburgh
and near West Virginia’s northern panhandle.
Although we
did not drive through any rain as we traveled to Shepherdstown we did pass
through areas where it had recently rained and I occasionally had to use the
windshield wipers to clear the glass of water thrown up by other cars. The sky
was overcast the whole way and we could see rain clouds and fog off to the
east. The temperature barely went above sixty and even dropped into the high
fifty’s as we passed through the higher mountains of West Virginia and
Maryland. I hoped the weather would clear by Sunday morning.
As we
neared Hancock, MD we began seeing signs for access points, parking lots, and historical
sites along the C and O Canal and I started wondering what the weather would be
like and how I would be feeling by the time Vince and I reached these points,
if we reached them at all. I had once lived in this area for ten years but I
was not cycling back then and had never visited the C and O Canal, yet I was
familiar with some of the names I saw, names like Williamsport, Cushwa Basin,
Shepherdstown, and Harpers Ferry. I felt like I was back in somewhat familiar
territory.
Following my
unmet host Bob’s emailed directions I pulled up in the driveway behind his home
in Shepherdstown. As I approached the back porch to knock on the door I noticed
a box of old climbing pitons and some other outdoor gear sitting on the floor
as I remembered his Pastor telling me that Bob had been a climber in in his
younger days. Bob answered the door, welcomed me, and directed me to put my
gear inside the cab of his pickup and my bike in the truck’s bed.
By the time
I arrived back at the car Suzann had already transitioned to the driver’s seat
and was ready to head back to from whence we came. It took at least three trips
to move the panniers, other gear, and bike from the car to the truck and as I
did I felt a few sprinkles of rain fall. After I locked the bike to an eye bolt
protruding from the bed of the truck I climbed down, walked back to the car to
say thank you and goodbye to Suzann, and walked back to Bob’s home as Suzann
drove off.
I took one
pannier, the one with my riding kit for the next morning, some extra clothes,
and a bag of toiletries, with me into Bob’s home. He showed me to my room for
the night, an upper bedroom with a single bed and overlooking the back yard and
his pickup truck with my bike locked in its bed. After getting situated I went
back downstairs and engaged Bob in conversation as I wanted to better know my
host for the night and chauffer for the next morning.
The B&W Photo of Mt. Washington on Bob's wall |
I learned
that Bob used to work for the Appalachian Mountain Club in Pinkham Notch, NH
and had recently retired from working for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy in
nearby Harpers Ferry, WV. His living
room was decorated with mementos from his pre-retirement days. A framed large
black and white photo of Mt. Washington featuring Tuckerman’s Ravine hung near
a similar sized framed black and white photo of Colorado’s Long’s Peak. Various
outdoor gear such as a waterproof and windproof shells, pack, stove, sleeping
pad, and such were strewn about the house.
Bob Talked
about climbing and mountaineering adventures while he sipped red wine. He told
me about a rescue he was involved in years ago near the base of Long’s Peak. He
reminisced about meeting some early climbing and mountaineering legends,
including Paul Petzoldt, the founder of the National Outdoor Leadership School,
of which I was an alum. We compared
notes on Pinkham Notch and Mt. Washington, especially Tuckerman’s Ravine and
Lion’s Head in winter, as I had had done some winter mountaineering there
decades ago. He talked about his work
with the ATC and how people in the US Park Service refer to the AT and a few
other parks as LSTs or “long skinny things”. He explained how the AT, like the
C and O Canal, because of their unique shape, had more miles of boundaries to
mark and protect than most parks, even large parks like Yellowstone.
When it
came time for dinner I put on a windproof rain shell as we left the house because
the temperature was barely sixty degrees and it looked like it could rain any
minute. As we walked the few blocks to the main street of Shepherdstown where
most of the local restaurants are located the pavement and sidewalks were wet
and we occasionally dodged puddles as the two of us continued to converse about
our mutual interests and experiences such as climbing, mountaineering, cycling,
kayaking, the AT, the Presbyterian Church, and divorce. If I didn't know better I would have thought I was in a quaint New England village in late spring or early fall.
Without a specific dinner destination
in mind we glanced through windows of restaurants and perused menus posted
outside before settling on grabbing some dinner at Maria’s Taqueria.
Bob
had heard that Maria’s was a nice place but had not eaten there before. We walked
inside, ordered, and sat down. After our food arrived I enjoyed my first ever
huevos rancheros accompanied by a Miner’s Daughter Oatmeal Stout from the Mountain State Brewing Co. in Thomas, WV. Bob had a low carb entrée and more red
wine. The food, the atmosphere, and the company were superb.
Your's truly, Jessica, and my host Bob at Maria's Taaqueria |
After dinner we walked through a
chilly, damp, dark Shepherdstown back to Bob’s home. After a few pleasantries I
said good night, went up to my room, climbed into bed, and wondered what the
next day and week would hold, knowing that in less than twelve hours I was to
meet up with Vince to begin our ride from DC to Pittsburgh.
The next installment will be about being chauffeured from Shepherdstown, WV to the C and O Canal in Georgetown and the first day riding from DC to PGH.
Here are links to previous installments in the "Spinning Wheels" series:
From DC to PGH - Prologue (Fifteenth Installment)
Transitioning (Fourteenth Installment)
Flats (Thirteenth Installment)
Beware Dehydration (Twelfth Installment)
Creams & Powders for your Butt (Eleventh Installment)
Starting Over (First Installment)
The next installment will be about being chauffeured from Shepherdstown, WV to the C and O Canal in Georgetown and the first day riding from DC to PGH.
Here are links to previous installments in the "Spinning Wheels" series:
From DC to PGH - Prologue (Fifteenth Installment)
Transitioning (Fourteenth Installment)
Flats (Thirteenth Installment)
Beware Dehydration (Twelfth Installment)
Creams & Powders for your Butt (Eleventh Installment)
Group vs. Solo Rides (Tenth Installment)
Competitiveness (Ninth Installment)
Stats (Eighth Installment)
Accidents Happen (Seventh Installment)
Pedals for Cleats (Sixth Installment)
Competitiveness (Ninth Installment)
Stats (Eighth Installment)
Accidents Happen (Seventh Installment)
Pedals for Cleats (Sixth Installment)
Riding Shoes with Cleats (Fifth Installment)
Be Kind to Your Behind (Fourth Installment)
Combating Hand and Arm Numbness (Third Installment)
Reading and Riding (Second Installment)Starting Over (First Installment)
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