A REALLY old photo I took, probably from the late 70's. |
I caught the climbing bug the summer of
1974, when I was 16, after being introduced to ropes, slings, carabiners and
brake bars while rappelling sixty feet off a water tower, and overhearing the
people who taught me how to rappel talking about their climbing adventures at
Seneca Rocks, WV. Soon after that first
rappel, I somehow managed to acquire these three books, and along with some
Goldline Rope, nylon webbing which I tied into diaper slings, carabiners and break
bars, taught myself and some friends how to climb and rappel.
Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft taught
me theory as well as ethics. While
Robbins wrote about pitoncraft as well as nutcraft in Basic Rockcraft, I have
never placed a piton. I came to climbing after the advent of the clean climbing
movement, and Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft gave me all the theory I
needed to learn about placing clean protection.
The practice I gained from following other clean climbers and eventually
leading. Ropes Knots and Slings for Climbers rounded out my early climbing education, filling in any gaps not covered
by Robbins.
My copies of these three classics are not
originals. I wore those out years ago
and eventually replaced them. Nearly
forty years later, I have read many other climbing instruction books, but these
three still stand out as holy writ, sacred works of climbing. As I flipped
through their pages, looking at the photos, diagrams and drawings, I was
reminded of younger days when I dreamed of Yosemite and Everest, climbing heaven.
I learned how to lead scaling the walls of
Seneca Rocks, WV, and have since climbed in New York’s Shawangunks and West
Virginia’s New River Gorge as well as other smaller cliffs and crags. I even free rappelled off West Virginia’s New
River Bridge, through over 700 feet of thin air.
I never made it to Yosemite or Everest,
although I still dream . . . someday. I never put up a new route. But I have enjoyed rock. I have loved rock. I have worshiped rock, thanks to this Holy
Trinity of Climbing Instruction Books. Flipping
through their pages, I could almost feel the rock under my hands and feet, feel
the sun warming me and rock, feel the wind rustling trees and hair, smell the nearby
pine trees, and the rock and lichens just inches from my nose.
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